A shift in fashion consumption habits is far from the most seismic consequence of the pandemic we are currently facing, but in an industry that was desperate for an overhaul before the crisis, it is worth discussing.
Already, we were at the start of a significant paradigm shift in the fashion world, with businesses trying to become more sustainable and more transparent. This is largely due to increased pressure from more educated (and morally conscious) consumers, but also from lobbyists and legislators. This unprecedented pressure to disclose details surrounding their supply chain marks a difficult but exciting time for a sector that has become comfortable with a level of mystery surrounding its practices.
Fashion is expected to be the most badly hit of all the retail sectors. The first wave of this pandemic has the immediate effect of getting us all as consumers thinking about the meaning of the word ‘essential.’ Day-to-day, as we follow our orders to stay home to save lives, we don’t necessarily have the excuse to get dressed up. People have realised that a lot of fashion is performative. We wear things to be seen. Often, we wear things for the almost exclusive benefit of other people.
Many of us are sitting on wardrobes stuffed with clothes that we accumulate as the result of our frivolous spending and social habits. A new dress for every night out. New gym gear to ‘treat ourselves’ to, in the hope it might encourage us to work out more. A new pair of heels for every wedding invitation we receive.
So the initial questions people will be asking is ‘is this something that I need?’ or (if they’ve been binge-watching Marie Kondo a few months too late) ‘is this something that brings me joy daily?’ Consequently, a number of people will take this time as an opportunity to clear out their wardrobes - listing things on eBay and putting things aside to donate to charity shops once restrictions are lifted.
This isn’t just because we have more time available to do so - but also because we are scraping about for “cash in the closet”. Every little helps at a time like this, and online selling can move quickly (I started listing items on Vinted about a week ago and have made just over £120 in sales in that time.) The normalisation of resale stands to benefit not only online selling platforms, but also companies like Enviroclothes that operate in larger quantities to recycle scrap textiles.
We are going to re-examine our emotional connection to the clothing we have. It will not be a straightforward transition back into regular consumption after this lockdown period, as governments stagger permissions for the population to control the spread of the disease.
Not only will our access to the material goods we once took for granted be restricted, but the devastating financial impact of the crisis means we will have less disposable income across the board. We will think about buying clothing in terms of what we want to invest in for the long run - pieces we can wear again and again, heirlooms we can pass on, prioritising quality and craftmanship. Those who can afford to will invest in designer pieces, vintage garments or explore purchasing from smaller, independent brands.
Those who can't may turn to rental options. Companies such as Rotaro, Hurr and Hirestreet that up-end the idea that we are the proprietors of a wardrobe, and instead that we are the temporary guardians of our garments. In the short term, they will struggle, being largely events-led. But if they can weather the storm, they stand to benefit from these subtle shifts in consumer attitude. When life returns to normal, we might see these unused garments hanging in our wardrobes as not only unnecessary but irritating.
Clothes swapping parties that blend a social element with sustainably replenishing our wardrobes will become a Friday night activity of choice. Businesses that are encouraging us to recycle our existing wardrobes like Vestiaire Collective and HEWI London stand to profit. Clothes can have second, third and fourth lives and continue to provide enjoyment for their new owners - and generate some income.
How this all plays out will be particularly interesting in the fast-fashion world. It is a market segment that has sold itself as a playful but relentless companion to young women across the globe - reliant on impulse buying and a constant stream of new product. Novelty is the order of the day - buy something, wear it once, get the picture, and the garment then becomes obsolete. Its' close (if contentious) ties to the world of celebrity mean that with a lack of events and resulting photo-opportunities, new designs will have to find new reference points. No easy feat in a global system of creation where each stage requires sampling, fittings, presentations and discussions - all severely compromised by social distancing regulations.
The retail apocalypse was already well underway before COVID-19 swept in to decimate what was left. And with so many individuals in a sort of financial purgatory, we will be guarding our wallets closely. We will be encouraged to save more in case of future 'black swan' events and keep a financial buffer in our accounts. With this difficult reality settling in, the fashion world has to accept that it is a joyful 'optional extra' in the lives of many. We are not essential and we will have to rely on creativity, craftsmanship and the power of clothing to transform the way we feel about ourselves, and the world, to overcome that.